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I am currently writing from a cafe in Ushuaia the most Southerly city - or big town in Argentina. We arrived back from a brilliant month on the Antarctic peninsuala about 5 days ago and are now here refuelling and re-provisioning the boat for our next voyage which begins on Sunday.
The plan for the National Geographic project in January came unstuck somewhat as unfortunately the heavy ice conditions in the Weddell sea on the eastern side of the Antarctic peninsula were such that we could not safely get in there. However plan b swung into action and having picked up 3 enormous 2 man kayaks from the Chilean base on King George Island, we spent the month heading south down the peninsula. The expedition team kayaked and filmed as we went along, thorough ice filled straits and channels and in amongst towering icebergs. The aim was for the team to collect up to date evidence of global warming in action. I think this was a success, many hours of film was shot and some very dramatic scenes captured - including an enormous arched iceberg collapsing into the sea only about 150 yards from our boat!
continuing south we got just inside the Antarctic circle, when at the top of Adelaide Island, we came up against the fast ice (ice frozen to the land) and could go no further. So after spending the day messing about on the ice and on the floes we headed slowly north again.
En route a few of us climbed Jabet Peak a small mountain just above Port Lockroy (an old English base), this was very fun, especially for me who has done no real mountaineering. Sadly as we neared the summit there was a huge unstable slab of snow, so we could not quite reach the top without triggering an avalanche so we headed back down. At the foot of the mountain is an old refuge hut where we stayed the night - a wonderful hut built by the British Antarctic Survey and still full of
emergency provisions and 10 bunks.
The time came to head back to Chile and with an obliging weather window we headed out into the Drake passage which separates Antarctica from South America. On our way south we had a good crossing and managed to sail most of the way down. On our way north we had north - north Westerly winds and had to motorsail all the way back slamming into 10ft seas all the way back to Cape Horn.
Now the boat is cleaned up, fuelled up and ready to go back down for another month in the icy waters of the peninsula.
The boat is coming along well, and I much look forward to getting back to blighty to seeing her and all the work that has been going on in my absence. I hope you like the photos...